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Best lawn games 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated July 1, 2020
Best lawn games of 2018
Here we have compiled a detailed list of some of the best lawn games of the 2018. Before you spend your money on lawn games, start by familiarizing yourself with the various types.
Welcome to my website! If you plan to buy lawn games and looking for some recommendations, you have come to the right place. Simply review and buy them.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this lawn games win the first place?
I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days. I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing!
Why did this lawn games come in second place?
Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office.
Why did this lawn games take third place?
It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great! This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time.
lawn games Buyer’s Guide
Rotary lawnmowers work quite simply by rapidly spinning a blade to cut grass. They’re heavier, but provide more power. They’re generally a better choice for large lawns, as well as long, overgrown and unruly grass.
They’re the most common type and there’s a greater variety of rotary models to choose from. Most have wheels, but there are also hover lawnmowers available which float on air to make mowing lawns with slopes and uneven areas easier.
Cylinder lawnmowers use a barrel of rotating blades with a fixed blade at the base. The barrel turns as you move forward, trapping blades of grass and cutting them against the fixed blade.
They offer a finer, more precise cut, and are a good choice for neat, frequently mowed lawns, rather than long grass. Traditional models have no motor, which makes them much quieter and cheaper to run. But faster, motorised models are also available.
Electric lawnmowers are lighter than petrol mowers and cheaper to run. They’re not as powerful, making them suitable for small to medium lawns.
Many models plug into your mains, so you’ll probably need an extension cord to run the wire across your garden. Some have an inbuilt battery, so no need for cables, but make sure they can carry enough charge to last the whole job.
Petrol lawnmowers provide you with more power and endurance. They’re designed for tackling large lawns as well as grass that’s thick or overgrown.
They are heavier, so while they’ll cut more at once, they require more effort to manoeuvre. There are self-propelling models available that can reduce the effort required.
And if your lawn’s really huge, then you can always opt for a ride on model.
Petrol mowers are heavier so you may be more likely to push the mower rather than carry the mower to and from the lawn. Look for a mower with easy height adjustment so you can lift the deck clear of the ground while transporting. Also, look for large robust wheels that make pushing easier and can manage steps.
Side discharge mowers
Side discharge lawnmowers deposit grass clippings straight out of the sides and back on to your lawn.
This is fine if you’re making a short cut, but if your grass is longer, it will leave grass deposits across your lawn, which may need clearing away.
Most lawnmowers come with a grass clippings bag, which catches clippings while you mow.
You can easily empty and dispose of the waste, or turn it into compost. But the size of the bag is important, so you can avoid having to empty it frequently.
A lawn rake uses spring tines to scratch into the surface of the lawn, lift grass prior to cutting, as well as remove thatch and moss. Regular lawn raking improves surface drainage, allowing water to reach the grass roots. It aerates the soil allowing more sunlight and air around the grass blades. Lawn rakes can also be used to collect leaves and light debris from the lawn.
The difference between cylinder and rotary blades
Before deciding on what type of lawn mower you want, decide about the blade(s) – cylinder or rotary. Cylinder is a series of blades, as in the original lawnmower produced in the mid-1century. Rotary is a single blade of the type you’ll find in hover lawnmowers, for example.
The basic difference is that a cylinder blade(s) ‘slices’, while a rotary ‘chops’ the grass. Cylinder blades are better if you want that well-manicured look, while a rotary will do the job on longer, rougher grass.
Electric lawn mowers
Simply plug in and go. They’re the most common – and cheapest – around, accounting for some 70% of UK sales. But do keep an eye on the trailing wire.
There’s a huge variety in both models and price. Decide how serious you are about maintaining your lawn. There’s no point in shelling out a lot of money simply to give the lawn a monthly going-over. You pay for what you get.
Take the wheels off a basic electric lawn mower, stick a cushion of air underneath the deckand what do you have? A hover mower. They have the advantage of manoeuverability over their four-wheeled cousins, getting into areas that wheeled machines may find inaccessible.
However, hover mowers don’t have cuttings baskets so the tedium of raking and collecting the cut grass is an irritating chore at the end of mowing. They’re functional and will do the job.
Hand push lawn mower
If you prefer do things the old-fashioned way and hanker to follow in your dad’s (probably your grandad’s actually) mowing footsteps, then a basic hand push mower (invented in 1830) is for you.
No wires, no motors – just good old push power. You can watch the grass mount up in the collector, satisfied that not only is the lawn being kept in trim but so are you – using a manual mower will burn between and calories a minute, depending on your weight.
They’re as eco-friendly as you can get but you’ll probably have to get the mower out twice a week. And if the grass is damp and long, and the lawn rutted and muddy, you’ll find the calorie loss even higher as the effort increases.
Mulching lawn mowers
If mowing is the fun bit, then disposing of the cut grass is the tedious stuff, if you don’t compost. Mulching lawn mowers cut the disposal out as they mow – literally. While a cutting mower cuts the grass once, a mulching mower puts the cut grass through the cutting process several times, chopping it to tiny pieces which then drop onto the lawn, feeding the lawn as they go. It eliminates lawn fertiliser letting nature get on with it.
Petrol lawn mowers
These are the ‘big beasts’ of lawn mowers. They are clunking machines, great if you have a large area of lawn, with a range extending far beyond electric mowers. The downside is the hassle of filling them up with fuel and the fact that they are a minor eco-nightmare and potential health hazard. According to recent research, one hour of petrol mowing emits the same amount of carcinogens as a car on a 100-mile journey. Fitted with a heavy roller, these will give you that striped lawn you’ve dreamt of.
Cordless models are battery-powered, so your movement isn’t restricted. They’re still fairly light, but make sure you pick one that carries enough charge to allow you to complete your work. Otherwise you’ll have to stop to recharge.
A petrol trimmer gives you more power and endurance to deal with large areas and thicker grass. This is why most brush cutters are petrol powered. But they are heavier and noisier than other models and will also require more servicing.
Brush cutters are the heavy-duty cousin of grass trimmers. They use a spinning blade made from either metal or plastic to tackle thick growth and vegetation.
They are, however, perfect for tackling lawns that have become seriously overgrown. You can use a brush cutter to cut back the grass to make it more manageable for a lawnmower.
One drawback of brush cutters is that because the blade is solid and more exposed, it can be easily chipped or broken if it strikes something hard. But replacement blades are available and easy to attach.
Single or dual line
Grass trimmers come with either one or two lines. Two lines provide faster cutting, but smaller, single line trimmers are fine for trimming grass on small, tidy lawns.
The more powerful the motor, the more trimming power. Electric motor power is measured in watts, cordless battery power in volts and petrol motors in CCs.
Generally speaking, for small lawns or for light use, not much power is needed. Electric models from 250Ws – 400Ws or cordless models with 1volts and above will be suitable. But for larger lawns, with difficult areas, more force will be required.
Running time & charging
If choosing a cordless model, ensure the battery will last long enough to do all the work, and check how long it takes to recharge after.
You could be carrying your trimmer for a long time if you have lots to do. Check your choice is light enough to carry comfortably for the duration. Some heavy models and usually brush cutters, will come with a carry strap.
Many trimmers come with a guard that allows you to trim against trees, fences and other objects safely without the line coming into contact.
An adjustable head will rotate or tilt to help you to get the right cutting angle.
A model with reduced vibration will help take some of the strain and effort out of mowing.
Some trimmers can convert into an edger to give you a perfect cut across your lawn’s edges.
These classic lawn darts are thankfully not too classic. Made from a high quality molded plastic and fitted with weighted tips on the end instead of sharp points, this game is prefect for bringing to the beach or just playing in the park. All players have to do is set the rings included in this package thirty feet apart and being throwing. Each set includes two rings and four darts.
Grill Friends Silicone Brush
Pros. They keep rain, snow, wasps, birds, and other vermin out. If you have a shinyt stainless steel rig, it will keep it shinier. An expensive grill under cover will attract fewer thieves.
Cons. They are a bit of a pain because you have to wait til the grill cools and they gather rain when left off. But they can also trap moisture and humidity underneath and actually encourage rust and mold growth. For these reasons I cover only my grills and smokers that can collect water on the inside like my Weber Smokey Mountain, my Hasty Bake, and my pellet smoker (if the pellets ever melt and then dry out, getting your smoker up and running is an all day sucker).
Weber’s Grill Pan Sears and Allows Smoke Through
You need a good cast iron griddle. Especially if you like fish, burgers, grilled sandwiches, home fries, or pancakes. Coat the flat side with oil, and you can sear fish so it is golden and crispy on the outside just like that great pan-seared fish you get in restaurants. Throw some dried herbs onto the flame, and you’ll get a whisp of smoke in the meat.
You can even bring it indoors and it will straddle two burners. Use the flat side for pancakes. Flip it over and you get grill marks and conduction cooking from the ridges on steaks, burgers, or asparagus, and the fats and juices drip into the grooves where they vaporize and flavor the meat and cook by radiation.
This is a very handy tool. One word of caution. You may need two. If you use it for fish a lot, the flavor will remain on the surface, even after cleaning, so you won’t be able to use it for pancakes.
I keep a cooking diary. In it I write down vital info about every cook so I can learn what works and what doesn’t. OK. So I’m anal. But being anal got me this gig. The two most important variables to track in any cook are time and temp. So I used to wear a stopwatch around my neck when I cooked. Click when I fire up. Click when it is up to temp. Click when the meat goes on. Click when I add more wood or charcoal. Click when I turn. Click when I sauce. Click when I take it off. But have you seen the new digital stopwatches? They are a real pain with faaaar too many features and bells and whistles. My last one sat in my desk between cooks and beeped every hour and the only way I could make it shut up was with a hammer. True story. Now I use the very sinple user friendly Timestick.
Knob Where You Need It Makes Grilling Safer And Easier
Dishwasher safe stainless steel with OXO’s popular nonslip rubber handles, they are the winner of the Tylenol/Arthritis Foundation Design Award. They are spring loaded and the ends are scalloped for better gripping. There is a loop for hanging and a mechanism that locks them in closed position for storing (which has failed after several years on all three pairs that I have). Regardless, they are still my faves. I just store them with a cardboard toilet paper core over the ends.
LamsonSharp Fish Tongs
Here’s how to make two perfectly toasted panini style grilled sandwiches at once. Use this old fashioned double pie iron, originally designed for filled pies, for everything from Grilled Cheese to Pulled Pork.
Bayou Classic 8.Quart Cast Iron Dutch Oven
Forget the fancy high end pricey Le Cruset French Oven, this is the one you want for cowboy cooking and camping, and it comes in handy around the house. It’s perfect for whole chickens or slow braising in the oven or in the grill.
When a recipe calls for garlic to be crushed, minced, or pressed, I use a garlic press. A good garlic press releases more oils and flavors than mincing with a knife and pressed garlic coats the food more evenly than mincing.
Digital kitchen scale
I don’t know how I lived without a good, accurate digital kitchen scale for so many years. It is so important. Look at salt for example, cup of table salt has almost twice as much salinity as a cup of Morton’s kosher salt because Morton’s kosher salt has more air space between the grains. But a pound of all salts contain exactly the same amount of sodium chloride.
Grandma’s Secret Spot Remover
I first heard about this from a competition cook. To say I was skeptical is an understatement. A spot remover that will remove the grease stains on almost all my shirts is something I considered to be as elusive as unicorns and perpetual motion machines. So I bought a ounce bottle and tried it on one of my t-shirts.
The instructions say that all you need is just a drop. Sure. I used three drops. My shirt came out so clean I could not find where the stain had been originally. So I tried it on a dress shirt, but fearful it would ruin it, I used only one drop. Again, the grease was gone! So I hauled out all my saucy and greasy shirt, 1in all, put Grandma to work, tossed them all into one tub, and before long, I had a new wardrobe. Utterly amazing stuff. And just for the record, I have been doing my own laundry since I went away to college, even through 40 years of marriage. May be a contributing factor to our longevity.
Even my wife is impressed with Grandma. She has used it on some of her finery including her Mom’s table cloth with ancient spaghetti stains, stains that Oxi-Clean, her go to remover, couldn’t handle.
The C-13offers the serious kayak fisherman a lightweight alternative to a heavy polyethylene kayak. Acceleration is quick, and just a few strokes will bring you up to speed. The CloudSeat provides durable, breathable, water- and sun-proof comfort, and the hull has been designed to accept a variety of trolling motors, stakeout poles, and various aftermarket accessories including a casting bar.
FeelFree Moken 12.5
Feelfree Move Angler
The Move Angler is the perfect kayak for kids and smaller paddlers getting into the sport of kayak fishing. It comes equipped with all the great features paddlers have come to expect in a Feelfree kayak: molded-in handles, recessed fittings, and the patented Wheel in the Keel. Its “tri-hull” design offers great stability and efficient tracking while paddling. The hull weighs only 4pounds, making it very easy for a solo paddler to maneuver on or off the water—even a younger paddler.
Old Town Predator PDL
The Predator PDL provides hands-free forward and reverse propulsion with a brand new pedal drive that installs quickly and tips up instantly for shallow-water docking. The Predator PDL’s specially-designed hull combines the perfect balance of smooth pedal stroke-speed and stand-up stability.
Old Town Predator 1& MX Series
Engineered above and below the waterline to be the perfect platform for fishing, the Predator series can tackle everything from small-pond largemouths to rough-seas stripers. The Predator comes loaded with features including a slip-resistant deck and comfortable Element Seating System. The Predator MX, or Mixed Water, features a slightly more rounded hull that’s designed to handle moving water conditions without sacrificing stability and performance.
Old Town Predator MK
The Predator MK bridges the gap between fishing kayaks, bass boats, and shallow-water skiffs. The combination of the Minn Kota motor and foot-controlled rudder system allows truly hands-free fishing while holding your place in current, working a shoreline, or following a school of feeding fish.
Perception Pescador Pilot 12.0
The Pescador Pilot 12.0 features the Pilot Drive pedal system, which is ergonomically optimized for all-day, hands-free propulsion. This sit-on-top kayak features a captain’s chair with easily adjustable gear tracks and tension knobs, four molded-in rod holders, two YakAttack accessory tracks, a transducer scupper, and two storage consoles for mounting electronics. The best feature? A price that propels the Pescador Pilot into a class all its own.
Old Town Loon 12Angler
The Loon 12Angler features a sleek new hull design that is both quick and forgiving. With extra width for stability, plus the all-new ACSseat, it is designed to be the most comfortable sit-inside angling kayak on the water.
Old Town Discovery Sport 15
With a square stern, the Discovery Sport 1can be paddled traditionally or motored with an engine up to HP. Extremely versatile, it is designed with full-length stabilizing chines and a generous beam, providing a dry and confident ride. Whether rowed, paddled or motored, you’ll enjoy the Discovery 15.
One of the biggest factors is the battery voltage. This – along with the wattage of the motor(s) – determines how powerful the car is. The lowest priced cars have 6V batteries and therefore are quite slow and may not cope with steep hills or rough terrain.
The next step up is 12V, but you’ll also see 24V and 36V.
As voltage rises, so does price, but more powerful toys tend to offer multiple speeds as well. This can be a benefit as a child can grow into a car, starting off with the slowest speed and graduating to the higher speed when they’ve learned to control the car.
Watch out for cars that lack reverse, and find out how long the battery lasts between charges, and how long it takes to charge, too.
Most manufacturers will state the age range for the car, and since you’ll be spending quite a bit of money, it’s worth getting a car that the child can grow into and enjoy for several years.
The limiting factor will be the maximum weight the car can take.
Cars that come with remote controls offer extra safety, as the parent can steer or stop the car to avoid it crashing into anything. Note that this is almost always selected by a switch which determines whether the car is controlled by the child or the remote control, so you can’t override their driving remotely.
If you’re mowing less than half an acre of lawn, the best lawn mower for your grass-cutting needs is the self-propelled, gas-powered Honda HRX217K5VKA. After 60 hours of research and conversations with two landscapers, two service outlets, and Roy Berendsohn of Popular Mechanics (who has tested and evaluated lawn mowers for more than 20 years), we found that the quality, reliability, and features of the Honda—as well as its unique ability to balance how much grass is mulched and how much is bagged—justify its steep price.
For the fourth straight year, the Honda HRX217K5VKA is the best mower for most lawns. Our runner-up remains the Toro 20340 Recycler, and the Ego LM210is still our cordless pick. The Lawn-Boy 1773and the Cub Cadet SC100 11A-A92J7are still our low-cost options (the Lawn-Boy has a new model number but is otherwise identical).
Lower cost and upright storage
Though it lacks the long-term reputation of our main pick, the Toro performs well, costs far less, and can be stored upright, saving valuable garage space.
If our main pick becomes unavailable or is simply too expensive for you, we recommend the Toro Recycler 20340 as a runner-up choice. It costs less than the Honda and comes with several of the same features, like intuitive self-propulsion and excellent mulching performance. The Toro’s standout feature is its ability to be stowed upright. This, according to Toro, reduces the storage footprint by about 70 percent, making this a valuable feature to anyone with a small shed or crowded garage. However, with the Toro, there’s nothing like Honda’s Versamow feature, so you’re either fully mulching or bagging. And though the Toro did well in the Consumer Reports testing, no one puts it on the same pedestal as the Honda—especially when it comes to reliability.
The ideal mower for most lawns smaller than half an acre in size is a self-propelled model with rear-wheel drive coupled with a variable speed control.
Before we get into the details, we should note that lawn mowers come in a wide variety of flavors with a wide variety of features. Husqvarna alone has nine different gas-powered walk-behind mowers listed at its site. Toro has a whopping 2Many features are specific to certain lawn and terrain conditions. To cover their bases, most manufacturers offer mowers with different feature combinations to make sure that they’re going to have a model that will work for your particular lawn.
After 60 hours doing research and interviewing experts, we concluded that the ideal mower for most lawns smaller than half an acre in size is a self-propelled model with rear-wheel drive coupled with variable speed control. It should also have three options for disposing of clippings: side discharge, bag, and mulch. Other nice features to have are a blade brake clutch, which allows you to stop the blade but keep the mower running, and a washout port so you can easily clean the underside of the cutting dome with your garden hose.
The lawn mower buying guides at Lowe’s and Home Depot consider half an acre of lawn (21,780 square feet) to be the upper limit of a walk-behind mower. The guide at Briggs & Stratton, a manufacturer of mower engines, bumps it up to three-quarters of an acre, but that’s almost 33,000 square feet, and unless you really enjoy your time spent mowing your lawn, we think that’s too big. If you’re much above half an acre, consider the benefits of a ride-on mower.
For anyone with a small enough lawn for a walk-behind mower, self-propelled designs are very easy to handle because the drive wheels move the machine forward, so all you have to do is steer—not push. Berendsohn, in a mower guide at Popular Mechanics, recommends self-propelled mowers (as opposed to a basic push mower, or a reel mower) for any lawn bigger than 4,000 square feet.
All of the landscapers and service/retail guys we spoke with said that they recommend rear-wheel drive (RWD) over front-wheel drive (FWD), mostly due to the superior traction. Crosby told us that he has “never used anything with front drive.” FWD is cheaper, but ultimately, we think RWD offers enough benefits to justify its price premium. Though no one likes to pay more, the feature makes a huge difference.
If you bag your grass, RWD is a much better option. As the bag gets filled with clippings, the weight of the mower starts to shift toward the rear, which actually increases the ability of the rear wheels to gain traction. On a FWD mower, this same situation lifts weight off of the drive tires and makes them less effective at pulling the machine. It’s also easier for a RWD mower to get traction on hills and inclines, and, according to Ortiz, the wheels can grip better if you hit a patch of thick grass.
Looking through landscaping and mowing forums, some say that rear-wheel mowers are easier to keep in a straight line, and others like the fact that they can propel across a hump or a driveway while tipped back with the front wheels raised, preventing scalping the turf or damage to the blade.
For making quick 180-degree pivots, like at the end of a mowing line, it’s crucial to pair the rear-wheel drive with a variable speed control. To do this move, you usually push down on the handle, lifting the front wheels off the ground, and turn. FWD mowers can easily do the maneuver because the drive wheels are immediately disengaged, but a RWD mower that keeps advancing can make it awkward. However, you can do it with a RWD model as long as you have full control over the mower’s speed: You just throttle down, execute the turn, and throttle back up. Once you get used to it, it’s simple. John Neff has used a RWD Honda for over four years and is a former owner of a FWD Troy-Bilt. He told us that he didn’t think there was a huge difference in maneuverability between the two systems.
Traditional Beer Pong
CupsCo has a great short description of how to play beer pong. Other house rules I have seen are where girls can blow the ball while it is spinning around in a cup top and cause the ball to exit the cup. Guys can do the same but use their finger to get the ball out.
How to play
Two teams of an equal number of players. Stand next to your team with the opposing team on the other side of the table. Everyone places a red solo cup in front of them and fills up to the first line in the cup with beer. The first person on each team must drink their beer at the same time and place on the edge of the table, then flip the cup so it lands upside down. Once you finish the next person on your team can then drink their beer and flip. This continues until all players go. First team to finish wins.
The green should form a square with sides between 30 and 40 metres long. If space for a square is not available, the longer side of the rectangle must not be more than 4yards and the shorter must not be less than 30 metres.
The green is divided into rinks 4.metres and 5.metres wide for outdoor play, numbered consecutively. The four corners of the rinks shall be marked by pegs of wood, painted white and fixed to the face of the bank and flush therewith. These corner pegs shall be connected with green thread drawn tightly along the surface of the green with sufficient loose thread to reach the corresponding pegs on the face of the bank. These pegs and thread define the boundary of the rink.
The green must be level and surrounded by a ditch and bank. The bank shall be not not less than 23cm above the level of the green, preferably upright or alternatively at an angle of not more than 3degrees from the perpendicular.
For domestic play the green may be divided into rinks not less than 4.metres nor more than 5.metres wide.
At the beginning of the first end of the mat is placed lengthwise on the centre line of the rink, the back edge to be four feet from the ditch.
In all subsequent ends the back edge of the mat shall be placed not less than four feet from the rear ditch and the front edge not less than 2metres from the front ditch and on the centre line of the rink.
If the mat is moved during play it shall be replaced as near as possible in its original position and if found out of alignment with the centre line of the rink it may be straightened.
Point Of Aim
The effect of the bias on the bowl is negligible until the bowl has covered about three- fifths of its path. From then onwards the bowl follows a curving path, the amount of the curve increasing all the time until the bowl comes to rest. When the bowl has travelled three-fifths of its path it will be at its widest point from the straight line connecting the mat and the jack. This is known as the Point Of Aim.
The area enclosed between the curved path of the bowl and the line from the mat to the jack is known as Land.
In competitive games, a trial end in each direction is permitted before the game commences.
There are two recognised grips, or methods of holding the bowl.
The bowl is placed in the palm of the hand, the middle fingers being spread out under the bowl. The thumb and little finger provide additional support for the bowl, the little finger being level with the bottom of the disc, the thumb over the top, or a little above, the large disc. The bowl is not held tightly, but gripped enough to prevent it slipping at the moment it is delivered from the hand.
In the cradle grip the bowl rests in the hand. The middle fingers are placed fairly close together with the thumb much lower down the side of the bowl than in the claw grip. The wrist slightly cupped so that the bowl does not slip from the hand as the arm is swung backwards.
With both grips the middle fingers must be parallel to the running surface. A wobbly bowl is caused by the middle finger being pulled across its running surface.
In a forehand shot this swing of the arm and the path of the wood never intersect the line from the mat to the jack. The swing of the arm should always be parallel to the body. To play a forehand shot turn to the right until the shoulders are square to the point of aim.
In the backhand shot the swing of the arm crosses the line from the mat to the jack. Turn to the left until the shoulders are square with the point of aim before delivering the bowl.
Having fixed the point of aim and turned on the mat until the shoulders are square to it, delivery and length are the only two problems to be overcome. With a natural swing parallel to the body the direction of the bowl will be correct and only length needs to be determined.
Some players always adopt a square position on the mat. By doing so they add an unnecessary handicap to their game, for, to play a forehand shot, the arm must move away from the body in the forward swing; to play a backhand shot, the arm must swing across the body.
With players on each side
Note that (a) A single game means one game only, whereas a singles game means one player on each side. (b) A rink is that part of the green on which the game is played.
Starting The Game
The captains or skips in a team game shall toss to decide which side shall play first, but in all singles games the opponents shall toss, the winner having the option of decision.
In all ends subsequent to the first the winner of the preceding scoring end shall play first.
The Singles Game
Each player has four bowls and plays them singly and alternatively. Player X having won the toss may throw the jack and then deliver the first bowl. Player Y delivers his first bowl, Player X follows and so on until both players have delivered their four bowls.
The end is completed when all the bowls have been played in one direction and the points have been mutually agreed. A fresh end is then started by playing back along the rink.
The player first reaching 2points, or shots, wins the game.
The Pairs Game
Each player has four bowls and plays them singly and in turn.
A and B are playing X and Y. A and X alternate until they have each delivered four bowls; then B and Y alternate until they have sent down four bowls each.
All bowls of one pair nearer to the jack than any bowl of the two opponents count one shot each. The maximum score for an end is eight shots. The game is concluded when 2ends have been played, the pair with the highest score being the winners.
The Fours Game
Each side consists of players, each player having bowls. He plays them singly and in turn, as in the triples game.
All bowls of one team nearer to the jack than any bowl of the four opponents count one shot each. The maximum score for an end is eight shots.
The game concludes when 2ends have been played, the team with the highest score being the winners.
A bowl which, in its original course on the green, touches the jack is called a Toucher. It remains a live bowl even though it passes into the ditch, provided it comes to rest in that part of the ditch within the boundaries of the rink.
If the jack has been driven into the ditch and should be displaced from its position in the ditch by a bowl delivered later in the end (i.e by a non-toucher), it is restored to its former position in the ditch. If a later bowl drives a toucher, still lying on the green, into the ditch, displacing the jack lying in the ditch, the jack is not restored to its former position. The same rule applies if the toucher driven into the ditch displaces another toucher lying there.
The fours game is, however, the most popular one, since it accommodates the maximum number of players (8) on a rink, demanding that each side of four players should combine to play as a team. Matches are invariably played as fours games.
Fours play demands a greater skill than the other games. Each player is limited to two bowls, and with only a pair of bowls to deliver in each end, no player can afford to be careless with either shot.
The four players in each side are known as lead, second, third and skip. They play in that order, alternating their shots with their opposite numbers in the other team, and continue to play in that order until the end of the game or match. Changing the order involves forfeiture of the game or match to the opponents.
Each player must be a specialist in his position. In addition each player has certain duties to contribute towards the smooth progress of the game.
The duties undertaken by the second man consist of keeping a record of all shots scored for and against his side. He records the names of the players on the score card, and after each end he compares his record of the game with that of the opposing second player. At the close of the game he hands the score card to the skip.
Position Of Players During Play
Possession of the rink belongs to each side in turn, belonging, any any moment, to the side whose bowl is being played. As soon as each bowl comes to rest, possession of the rink is transferred to the other side unless a bowl becomes a toucher when possession is not transferred until the toucher has been marked.
Players not in possession of the rink must not interfere with their opponents, distract their attention, or in any way annoy them.
The position of players during play is important. Players standing at the head of the green, unless directing play, i.e, the skip or third man, must stand behind the jack and away from the head. The skip or third man directing play may stand in front of the jack, but must retire behind it as soon as the bowl is delivered.
All players at the mat end of the green, other than the one actually delivering a bowl, must stand behind the mat.
The length of a full size bowling green is 4yards, and the jack must be delivered to a distance of 2yards from the mat. Each bowl must traverse a distance between 2and 40 yards. The beginner must learn to estimate the various distances over which each bowl is to be delivered.
The trail is a difficult shot to achieve. The object of the trail is to take the jack along with the bowl, the two rolling together and coming to rest while still in contact.
If they come to rest with the bowl hiding the jack from view, then the perfect shot has been made. Further, should the jack be carried into the ditch, the player is in an unbeatable position while that end is being completed.
The trail demands accurate judgement of land in that the bowl must still be running when it strikes the jack. Weight must be calculated exactly to prevent the jack running ahead of the bowl, or being knocked to one side or the other.
The guard is a shot which can be used to defeat a possible firing shot by an opponent. The bowl is delivered to come to rest about feet in front of the jack along the straight path from the mat to the jack. When accurately positioned it provides a physical guard to the jack, and has a psychological effect on the next player by disturbing his estimate of the distance from mat to jack.
In a competitive single fours game where a club is represented by only one four, all the members of the four must be genuine members of the club. The failure of all four players to appear and play after a period of thirty minutes, or the introduction of an ineligible player, will cause the side at fault to forfeit the match.
In a team game where not more than one player is absent from either side after a period of thirty minutes, the game proceeds. In the defaulting side or four, the number of bowls is made up by the lead and second players each playing three bowls. One fourth of the score made by the defaulting side or four is deducted at the end of the game.
If two or more players are absent from a four or side, play takes place only on the full fours. In a single four game the defaulting side forfeits the game. In a team game the aggregate score of the defaulting side is divided by the number of fours which should have been played, whereas the aggregate score of the non-defaulting side is divided by the number of fours actually played.
Should play be interrupted due to darkness, weather, or a similar reason, it is resumed with the scores as they were when play was stopped, an uncompleted end being declared null.
If one of the four original players in any four is not available when play is resumed, one substitute is permitted but that substitute must not be transferred from another four.
Should a player in a single game have to leave the green owing to illness, the game is resumed, if possible, at a later time or date.
A player may not delay play by leaving the rink except with the consent of his opponent, and then not for more than minutes.
Contravention of any of the above conditions entitles the opposing side to claim the game or match.
These are the
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