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Best tubes for boats 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated January 1, 2019
Best tubes for boats of 2018
Not all tubes for boats are created equal though. Now, let’s get to the gist of the matter: which are the best tubes for boats for the money?
Here, I will review 3 of the best tubes for boats of 2018, and we will also discuss the things to consider when looking to purchase one. I hope you will make an informed decision after going through each of them. Simply review and buy them.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this tubes for boats win the first place?
The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I was completely satisfied with the price. Its counterparts in this price range are way worse.
№2 – O’Brien Super Screamer Inflatable Tow Tube – Best Tubes For Jet Skis
Why did this tubes for boats come in second place?
The O’Brien Super Screamer is a classic tube for two riders to get whipped out and bounced around to their hearts’ content. The flat deck makes it comfortable to lay or kneel on, especially with the two EVA pads underneath their arms and body. The 6 handles with EVA knuckle guards allow the riders to modify their position.
Why did this tubes for boats take third place?
It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great! It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built.
Tubes for boats Buyer’s Guide
The answer is probably not – so don’t waste your time hunting for the deepest ‘V’ possible because, for most of us, a general-purpose RIB with a more pronounced and buoyant bow coupled to a slightly flatter deadrise is a better bet. As well as offering greater planing efficiency and extra internal space, it ought to be much better suited to long transits in varying sea states. But whatever kind of boat you favour, look for a builder with a well-established reputation and substantial hull and tube warranties. And then talk to existing owners (there are plenty of owners’ forums around), visit a few boat shows to check the quality of various boats in one place – and always insist on a test drive so you can see if a RIB really matches your expectations (and those of your loved ones) on the water.
Nylon is the most commonly used material for towable covers. It typically comes in different weights or thicknesses, commonly referred to as denier. The greater the denier number, the stronger the nylon is going to be. Note here that higher denier numbers will typically be found on more expensive towables or tubes that are designed for multiple riders.
As a guideline, a 420 denier is typically used on less expensive and single rider towable. This denier is lighter, thinner, and should only be considered when purchasing a single-rider towable.
An 840 denier is the heaviest nylon you will find in towables. Deniers at this wei ght are not simply heavier, but they are also stronger and used typically in more expensive, larger towables.
Polyester is another commonly used material in towables. Polyester coated with PVC is often used to strengthen Polyester and provide an additional alternative to high denier nylon. 600 denier coated with PVC Vinyl will be as strong as 840 denier nylon.
Polyester is also found in a “solution-dyed” form, most typically on boat lift canopies or awnings, due to its color retention and non-fading properties. Treated polyesters have good durability and resistance to fading from the sun. Note: 600 Denier Treated Polyester is found in place of nylon on and 2-rider towables.
Adults will typically use it as a lay-on-top towable and find it easy to get the tube outside of the wake. Due to its small size and high center of gravity, this shape towable tends to roll over quite easily.
In comparison, children will find this shape somewhat uncomfortable because of the size of the center hole. It is often too small to sit in and too large to lay on for younger children.
Just like deck tubes, ride-in tubes come in a variety of shapes and sizes that allow for anywhere from to riders simultaneously. The term ‘ride-in’ means just that…the rider sits down inside of the towable. Most models have inflated floors or seating areas that provide comfortable, dry areas for the rider.
More expensive ride-in tubes offer neoprene head rests as well as fully nylon-covered sides and floors. Usually riders will be hard-pressed to tip ride-in tubes due to their low center of gravity.
If Ride-in tubes mean that the rider rides inside of the towable, you may be able to guess what a Ride-on tube is, but allow us to explain more about them anyway. Ride-on tubes are available in many shapes and sizes to accommodate up to riders simultaneously. As opposed to sitting down inside of the towable, Ride-on tubes require the rider to sit atop or to straddle the fuselage of torpedo Ride-on tubes, or sitting in a recumbent style tubes.
Torpedo towables are designed for multiple riders and have the least amount of whip of all tubes. They can be somewhat unstable due to their long, narrow shape and high center of gravity.
Recumbent towables come in a D-shape design and provide riders with the thrills of deck tubes while remaining seated upright with head and back areas supported.
Three tubes for better performance
Adding a third pontoon (sometimes called the “performance package”) ensures better buoyancy and greater stability. Furthermore, three-tube pontoon boats can handle more powerful engines. While a 22-foot two-tube pontoon boat is limited to a maximum of 115hp, a three-tube boat in the same size can take a 200hp engine. Some three-tube pontoon boats with a reinforced structure can even handle a 300hp engine.
Pontoon boats are more than just a passing fad; they have a promising future. Thanks to their versatility, value for money and an increasingly luxurious selection of models, this type of boat has become and will remain a long-lasting, sound investment. We can therefore expect manufacturers to continue improving these products. There are already pontoon boats with more stylized shapes, modern interior design and technical innovations—and the result is higher-performance boats that are better adapted to the many pleasures of boating.
Technically not really a pontoon boat, but we decided to include them in the buyer’s guide because of their similarities. Inflatable float tubes are for the fishermen that want to get up close and stalk their fish. Instead of standing at the bank hoping the fish will come to you, you come to fish instead. It’s basically a inflatable seat with a couple of pockets and to power the boat you paddle with your feet.
Pontoons With Frames
Pontoons with frames are another hit among fishermen. Instead of a hard wood floor, they have pockets and bags to store all your fishing gear. They get you closer to the water than a frameless pontoon, not as much as a float tube but just enough so you can reach down and grab a fish from the water. Just like the floating tubes, framed pontoons give a more ‘personal’ feeling to your fishing. It’s hard to explain but it’s almost as you’re one with the lake, it’s definitely a different side to fishing. If a float tube had an upgrade, it would be this.
With this new style with high sides and inflatable base you can have all the speed you want but also teamed with the secureness. A great riders being 79”x92” for the family, great for kids but also good for adults. This is the true multipurpose tube.
A cool rider donut style 64” tube. With the same high side technology as the tea cup and inflatable it is also another tube great for the whole family but in a smaller size. Great for use if you have a smaller boat or want to put multiple tubes out. Great rider for kids as the high sides makes it secure but the donut style also lends itself to sliding and speed if the adults are desiring more.
Full Center Tube
Ride & Performance: The full center tube extends the running surface, sometimes even longer than the outer tubes. This basically gives you the effect of having a longer boat. And as we all know, the longer the boat, the better it will ride. The longer center tube will also make the boat more buoyant. which helps it to ride up higher out of the water, therefore having less drag and improving overall performance. The back of the boat will not drag or sit as low if the motor is mounted on a tube sitting in the water. Mounting it on the motor pod of a sport tube boat that does not sit in the water and hold up that extra weight of the motor. If you want the best performing tri-toon package, get a full center tube.
Engine Capacity: Upgrading to a full center tube is required if you want to put a large engine on your tri-toon. These boats typically have maximum horsepower capacities of 300-40hp, whereas a sport tube boat might be limited to 150hp. This is not only due to the buoyancy. The construction is completely different on most full center-tube boats.
Rough Water: Some full center tube boats have a rough water package. This basically means the nosecones on each tube are reinforced and the center tube is built into the deck completely differently. These boats can take a beating and never bat an eye. They might weigh a little more due to the extra construction, but this will only help break through the rough water condition you operate the boat in.
Lifting Strakes: Lifting Strakes are angled aluminum pieces. They are attached to the bottom corners of the tubes on a pontoon boat. They are angled so that they are flat on bottom and help lift the boat up on top of the water, therefore improving performance even more. Full center tube packages typically have lifting strakes, whereas a sport tube boat might not have 0 or lifting strakes. They are typically much smaller as well. Note: Look for boats with lifting strakes on the inside of the outer tubes and not on the outside. Lifting strakes attached on the outside of the outer tubes can make it more difficult to make a sharp turn as they tend to fight to keep the boat straight.
The cruising boater or silver-haired grey navy sailor would be well served by what is commonly termed a boat-in-a-bag. This is about as simple as boating gets. Compact, durable and inexpensive, basic roll-ups sport an inflatable collar and flexible synthetic rubber floor, the latter often reinforced with timber or composite slats that facilitate folding and add rigidity. Most are supplied standard with paddles/oars and can be folded down into a carrier the size of a golf bag, while many have rigid transoms capable of supporting an outboard.
Capable of a substantial payload once inflated, a 2.4m Plastimo Raid P240SH inflatable, for example, is rated to 5hp, with a capacity of three adults and a maximum load of 350kg — all this in a boat that can hide in the lazarette and the boot of a car. They’re great as a cheap tender and just right for fishing in shallow and skinny waterways. Add a small 2hp engine, a couple of two-piece rods and a splash of fuel, and you’ve got a stealthy boat that can access backwaters and creeks where you’d never get a conventional 10ft tinnie.
The best part, you get all of that for just a couple of grand — including the rods and fuel.
In recent years you may have caught New Zealand’s unique Sealegs boats performing party tricks around the Aussie boat-show circuit, morphing from rock crawler to tender extraordinaire before your very eyes. Available with either a fibreglass or alloy hull, Sealegs is a category unto itself and this innovative craft did itself proud in the aftermath of last year’s Queensland floods.
Predominantly outboard-powered inflatables require no more effort than any other boat to maintain in as-new condition. To maximise your inflatable’s lifespan, follow these simple guidelines: • If you normally have a shower after a dip do the same for your boat, a 10-minute washdown is all it takes. If you have a boat-in-a-bag, air it once it’s rinsed off, much like you’d hang out a wet tent. Hang wet carpet on the lifeline or siderail to dry and pop some moisture-absorbing pouches in any storage locker. • Flush the engine after every use. I repeat, flush the engine after every use. • Tubes can be cleaned of grime and scum with a bit of elbow grease and a mild detergent, while products like Jiff or Scuff Orf will sort out stubborn stains. Wax any fibreglass hull surfaces and dress the interior vinyl with a protectant such as Armor All. • Check the tubes for correct inflation and for leaks. • A pressure gauge is an inexpensive investment as is a bucket of soapy water, which brushed onto the tubes will reveal any leaks through tell-tale bubbles. Punctures are easily fixed with the supplied repair kit.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your tubes for boats wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of tubes for boats
- №1 — Airhead AHBL-12 Blast 1-Rider Towable
- №2 — O’Brien Super Screamer Inflatable Tow Tube
- №3 — SPORTSSTUFF 53-2213 Big Mable Towable