Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best monoculars 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated July 1, 2019
Best monoculars of 2018
I’ve based my selection methodology on customer feedback, the size, functionality, and budget to meet various demands. Here are my top picks with detailed reviews, comparison charts and buying guides to help you purchase the perfect item for your needs.
Check them out and decide which one suits you the best to splurge upon. I browse the various monoculars available on the market and list three of the very best.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
Why did this monoculars win the first place?
The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I also liked the delivery service that was fast and quick to react. It was delivered on the third day.
Why did this monoculars come in second place?
I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice.
Why did this monoculars take third place?
I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials.
monoculars Buyer’s Guide
Although one might be tempted to believe that bigger is better, the rule doesn’t always apply when it comes to binoculars destined for hunting. A magnification of 7x to 10x is more than adequate for all types of hunting. The higher the magnification, the lower the image steadiness; no one wants to steady a 10x binocular after a long tiring hike.
It is true that there are several large observation binoculars you may wish to choose from if you’re interested in using them for hunting. However, these units almost always require the use of a tripod, which for most users may prove to be tedious in the long run. Zoom binoculars come with a number of disadvantages that are worth taking into account. The vast majority of the manufacturers out there don’t commit to making their zoom binoculars waterproof, and most of the models in the line aren’t made for hard use.
There’s a myriad of hunters out there who are under the impression that buying a 10x binocular is simply better than choosing a 7x one. Regrettably, this isn’t an upgrade at all, and if you are looking to get more magnification, what you need to purchase and use is a spotting scope. The magnification of a pair of binoculars has to be associated with the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters.
The larger the lens, the heavier it is. If you are looking for portability, there’s always the option of choosing a 32mm objective, but it might be counterproductive in the end, as you’ll be able to see just a limited amount of detail. Anything under 30mm might be unsatisfactory, particularly if you ever intend on hunting in low light conditions.
Shortly, the main idea behind choosing the right objective size is that the large ones that can be purchased nowadays are bulkier but let in a lot more light than the smaller ones, which are lighter but less precise.
Field of view
The field of view of a unit is oftentimes expressed as FOV at 1000 yards. In a nutshell, this will be the area in feet that you’ll be able to visualize using your binoculars at a distance of 1000 yards. A small number means that the area you’ll be seeing is narrow. The higher the number, the wider the area. It goes without saying that, as you use the magnification, the picture will become smaller, as will the field of view.
There isn’t a universal rule when it comes to choosing the right field of view. On this account, people who are interested in utilizing their binoculars in wide-open areas might benefit from a higher FOV. Unless you’re targeting fast-moving game, you don’t require a higher FOV.
Image quality is generally thought of as being far more important than the field of view, especially since a standard FOV can be considered more than adequate for the majority of hunting.
Exit pupil and relative brightness index
Both the magnification and the objective size are the two details that determine the size of the exit pupil, of which the role is to allow light through to the eye. The exit pupil is defined by a number that results from dividing the objective size by the magnification factor.
Normally, the higher the exit pupil, the larger the amount of light that you’ll be able to visualize. Since it’s difficult to get the right objective diameter, magnification, field of view, and exit pupil, it might be a good idea to refer to the size of the human pupil. In young people, the eye pupil is capable of dilating up to 7mm, whereas, in the elderly, it can dilate up to mm. In this case, the rule of thumb is to choose hunting binoculars that feature an exit pupil with the same size or larger than the one you have in your eye.
The relative brightness index can be calculated by finding out the square of the pupil. In dim light, an RBI that is higher or equal to 2is traditionally thought of as the best alternative.
Optical coatings are added to the glass surface of the objective in order to reduce or downright eliminate light reflection. Light loss and glare are two things that you might not come across in a binocular with an optical coating, but you’ll definitely stumble upon them if your model doesn’t have any good coating. Brighter and clearer images often come from the quality of the optical coating.
If the model you want to purchase has coated optics, this means that at least one glass surface on at least one lens has been covered with an anti-reflective coating. Other units nowadays are fully coated, multi-coated, and fully multi-coated. FMC might be a tad too expensive for some buyers, but multi-coated alternatives do what they are supposed to do, in that they have received many anti-reflective coatings.
The better the coating, the higher the amount of light you will be getting, so if you are invested in getting the best binoculars for hunting, you might want to consider spending a bit more and getting a pair that is at least multi-coated.
Binoculars use a combination of glass elements to enlarge a scene, in order to provide a magnified image for the user to view. The quality of the image will therefore largely be down to the ability of the glass to render details and allow the transmission of light into our eyes.
There are two main types of binocular: Porro prism and roof prism.
Obvious from their wider shape, Porro prism binoculars use an offset internal prism to magnify an image. The wider distance between the two object lenses results in excellent 3D images compared to the narrower roof prism designs. Due to the simple engineering involved, Porro prism binoculars are easy to manufacture and so offer good optical quality at low cost. A downside to the larger size is that they are far less compact than roof prism models and so nowadays they are less favoured, particularly with improved optical quality of roof prism designs.
By using a smaller type of prism than Porro types, roof prism designs allow all the optical elements within the binoculars to be aligned in the construction; this in turn allows manufacturers to produce far more compact and lightweight designs. Due to modern optical engineering, decent roof prism binoculars offer excellent image quality and are favoured by most users for their compact size and improved ergonomics. Almost all of the top brands’ high-end binoculars are now based around a roof prism design.
Object lens size
Object lens size refers to the front element of a pair of binoculars and is given in mm. These come in a range of sizes from 20mm (seen on compact designs) to 50mm (on full-sized pairs). The amount of light entering a pair of binoculars is directly related to the surface area of the object lens. The diameter of the beam of light which exits the binoculars and reaches the eye is known as the exit pupil, and it’s directly related to the magnification and object lens size. To find the exit pupil of a given pair of binoculars you simply divide the object lens by the magnification – so, 3divided by would give an exit pupil of 4mm. The iris of the human eye is generally dilated by 2-3mm in sunlight and 6-7mm in twilight conditions, so for general daytime use choose a pair of 10x4or 8x4binoculars with an exit pupil diameter of around 5mm.
Weight and size
The problem with size and weight is that everything is a compromise. If you choose a large pair with large object lenses for the clearest images they will be heavy and a burden to carry. If you choose a compact pair with small object lenses they will be lightweight and perfect for travel, but you may soon become frustrated with the reduction in image clarity.
Size is an important factor, not only in terms of the amount of space your binoculars will take up in baggage, but also for the level of comfort they provide to the user. Large pairs that are heavy can be uncomfortable to hold if they do not fit your hands properly, and you will soon find they are far less enjoyable to use for long periods.
Weight comes with size and is not always a bad thing. After all, ultra-lightweight pairs can often feel cheap in the hand and weightier models can often feel more solid and stable in use. Weight and size will always be a compromise no matter how much you spend as larger object lenses will always require a heavier and larger build. For most people a mid-range pair of 8x3or 8x4binoculars are the best overall compromise, and these don’t have to break the bank.
Location of the focus wheel
It may seem obvious but the location of the focus wheel is of paramount importance when choosing binoculars. If the wheel is too close or far away it can be difficult to use, resulting in frustration while out in the field. The focus wheels on most binoculars are found in the centre of the body between the eyecups, and are generally made of rubberized material for grip. This allows the wheel to be turned by the index finger of either hand for simple and straightforward operation. On some compact pairs (as well as on cheaper binoculars) the focus wheel may be positioned in the centre of the body or at the same end as the object lenses; this can result in the user needing to stretch their fingers to operate it making it uncomfortable and causing hand strain.
Eyecups are an essential part of a good binocular. They make them comfortable to use for long periods and help eliminate stray light from entering the optical system via the rear optical elements. Most binoculars feature adjustable eyecups that provide a range of eye relief depths to accommodate an individual’s preference. Good quality eyecups lock firmly in place and don’t move unless made to, while on some cheaper models you will find they can be knocked out of position fairly easily.
Most pairs of binoculars are built around a central hinge, which allows you to vary the distance between the eyecups to fit your own face. Most binoculars feature a long central hinge that connects the two optical pieces together, with space at the end to wrap your lower fingers around for extra grip. Some designs feature two smaller hinges that take up less space, which allows more room for fingers to be wrapped around for a firmer grip and comfortable hold. These types of binoculars are excellent for those with smaller hands, as well as those who want to use them for long periods of time.
More of an accessory, but still worth a mention. Most binoculars come with a material strap for supporting them around your neck. If you use your binoculars often, upgrading the strap and purchasing one separately can greatly improve comfort for extended use in the field.
The OpticsThe optics of this monocular are fully fog and waterproof. The lens has an O-ring seal and a nitrogen filled barrel. This means that it is a multi-coated optic. The field of view is 31feet within a 1,000 yards. The close focus on the other hand is 1feet. As such, you can zoom in objects that are as close as yards.
Let us begin by taking a glance at the dimensions of the monocular. This item is minute and its diameter measures 1-13/32” x 3-27/32” lengthwise, which means it can effortlessly slide inside the pockets of your shirt or shorts.
Including the close up lens which is attached, the monocular has a length of 4-1/8”. It has a weight below a ¼ of a pound minus the close-up lens. It comes with an eye relief of 15mm and is comfy to use including or not including glasses.
The Leica Monovid has an objective lens measuring 20mm which gives a magnification of 8X in a very brilliant view. It also has fantastic resolution and contrast which makes you feel personal with what you may be observing.
The monocular comes with a viewing field of 330ft from one thousand yards. The close distance of focus that comes with the monocular is 61inches, but if you try screwing on the close-up lens you can attain an effect (macro) and achieve a closer focus on the item to about 11-1inches.
This Leica waterproof monocular applies a roof prism pattern containing a BaKglass prism which utilizes correction coating (phase) P40. The prisms are handled with Leicus system (High Lux) which joins with the correction coating for the phase to come up with an optimum resolution, conveyance of light and contrast throughout the prisms. The lenses are multi-colored (fully) and also have a water repellent coating (Aqua-Dura) on the external lens to repulse water and dust. Altogether, the optics quality is quite impressive to me and I believe that Leica has without doubt invested and set aside time for this item and their high price tag can definitely be justified.
It is very pricey and this is the only problem I have with the monocular up to now. This item has a focus ring that is sized perfectly for use when having or not having gloves and is ridged skillfully to provide solid and comfortable grasp on the wheel. It moves effortlessly but also contains enough resistances to help you avoid moving it by mistake. The user can simply use this monocular with one hand which is very nice. The monocular has been build using aluminum that also has a shell made of rubber. The texturing and painting of the rubber is skillfully done which provides a perfect grip (non-slip) for any weather circumstances.
Although the Monovid is compact, it definitely does not seem inexpensively made. On the other hand, it looks stylish enough to attend an important event with and durable enough to go hunting with. This Leica product is shock resistant, water resistant up to meters and fog resistant. Having dropped mine accidentally I can confidently say it was not damaged at all. The monocular is virtually bulletproof and designed very nicely to suit you using it every day. This monocular is described as a dream while in the field with one unique characteristic which is its weight. It is too light and for someone like me with hands that are shaky, it might be tricky to maintain a view that is steady without stabilizing myself against something or someone.
Objective Lens Diameter
The objective lens is the one opposite the eye piece. The size of this lens is crucial because it determines the amount of light that enters the binoculars. So for low light conditions, you get better images if you have a bigger diameter objective lens. The lens size in mm comes after the x. A ratio of in relation to the magnification is ideal. Between an 8x2and 8×40 lenses, the latter creates a brighter and better image with its bigger diameter.
Weight & Eye Strain
One should consider the weight of a binocular before buying it. Consider if using the binoculars for a prolonged time tires you. Similarly, use a binocular and see if it is taxing on your eye. While it is difficult to use regular binoculars for more than a few minutes at a time, the high-end ones hardly cause any eye strain and can be used for long hours at a stretch if needed.
Since binoculars are an essentially outdoor products, it is important that they have some degree of waterproofing-this is usually denoted as “WP”. While regular models can stay under limited amounts of water for a few minutes, the high-end models are left undamaged even after a couple of hours submerged in water.
SWAROVSKI HABICHT 10X40 W GA
74poundsSwarowski binoculars are at the very top due to their superior optics and exceptional build quality. This model promises extrawide field of view and bright, contrast-rich images.
Look for compact, lightweight models with mid-range magnification and field of view.
Look for rugged models with waterproofing, portability and durability. Ideal magnification is between 8x and 10x. Also look for large objective diameter and good lens coating so that it works well in rising and setting sun conditions.
Look for waterproofing with a wide field of view and vibration reduction if possible.
These binoculars by Athlon Optics are very light and slim thanks to a magnesium chassis.
No matter the conditions, with Midas, the outlook is clear. These binoculars are shockproof, waterproof and rubber armor gives them the ability to withstand any condition.
Binoculars for Astronomy & Star Gazing
I just want to emphasize that there is no one binocular for astronomy and stargazing that is perfect for everyone.
These ultra-Compact Binoculars delivers outstanding optical performance and stabilization capability at an affordable price. Due to image stabilization, there is no problem of blurriness that is very common with budget binoculars.
Canon Image Stabilizing Technology: The Canon 10×30 IS compact binoculars have multiple sensors and a small computer/microprocessor inside them. If the sensors detect movement the computer knows and it makes adjustments to the image. Due to an electronic computer built into the binoculars, they require two double “AA” batteries to operate.
Celestron SkyMaster Series of large aperture binoculars are a phenomenal value for high-performance binoculars ideal for astronomical viewing or for terrestrial (land) use, especially for over long distances. Each SkyMaster model features high-quality BAK-prisms and multi-coated optics for enhanced contrast. Celestron has designed and engineered the larger SkyMaster models to meet the special demands of extended astronomical or terrestrial viewing sessions.
These binoculars from Vortex feature HD extra-low dispersion glass for impressive resolution and color fidelity.
With these binoculars, you will get Vortex VIP warranty. Vortex VIP warranty is all about taking care of you after the sale. Vortex will repair or replace your Vortex product in the event it becomes damaged or defective-at no charge to you. If they cannot repair your product, they will replace it with a product in perfect working order of equal or better physical condition.
Testing Binoculars for Stargazing
Of course, the best way to see if a binocular model suits you is to give it a good tryout at night. Do stars focus down to pinpoints better in one pair than another? Your local optical shop, however, may not be thrilled with the idea of letting you play with lots of equipment overnight on a loaner basis.
Inspecting the front lenses. The darker the reflections in the lenses look, the better their optical coatings. This means more light is transmitted through the glass to your eyes, and less light is scattered around adding haze to the view.
How to Test Your Binoculars
Now, while still looking in the big front lenses, tilt the binoculars around a bit and look for more reflections deeper inside. They should all be colored, not white. A white reflection is the sign of a glass surface that has no coating at all.
Now turn the binoculars around and repeat the procedure, looking for colored versus white reflections in the eye lenses.
Next, face well-lit wall and hold the binoculars nearly at arm’s length, with the eyepieces pointed at you. You’ll see the exit pupils (disks of light) floating just behind the eyepieces, as was illustrated above. You might think that exit pupils would always be perfectly round, but this isn’t so. The ones on cheaper binoculars often have a slightly “squared off” look, as if someone shaved off, or dimmed, two or four edges. This is a sign of manufacturer’s corner-cutting that will slightly dim all the images you see.
Pick the units with round exit pupils; this tells you that quality prisms were used and that you’re getting all the light you should. (You can also check the specification sheet: the best prisms are made from BAK-glass, while others use BK-glass.) Since they’re hidden inside, the prisms are one of the first things manufacturers skimp on when trying to lower the price. Seeing “shaded” or “squared off” exit pupils is a sign of lesser-quality or undersized prisms.
Next: see if you can detect whether the binoculars’ two barrels are out of optical alignment, or “collimation.” Experienced users can pick up on this relatively quickly, but beginners have a harder time of it, because your eye and brain automatically try to compensate for any misalignment. The best way I can describe this is that out-of-alignment binoculars will make you feel slightly “seasick.” In really bad cases you may have trouble merging the two images into one, at least right away. Or maybe you’ll have a mild sense of relief when you stop looking through them. Reject such units.
Testing Under the Stars
If and when you do get a chance to test binoculars for astronomy under the stars, take it. A star at night is the most stringent indicator of optical quality. You may even find a daytime “artificial star” such as sunlight glinting off a distant insulator on a power pole or a distant piece of shiny metal.
Center it in the field of view. Looking with one eye at a time, can you bring it to a perfect point focus? Or, as you turn the knob, do tiny rays start growing in one direction before they have shrunk all the way in the direction at right angles? This astigmatism is especially bothersome when viewing stars. If you have astrimatism in your eyes, be sure to wear your glasses when doing this test.
If, as you turn the focus, little rays start growing out of the star in all directions before the rest of the star comes down to focus, you’re looking at spherical aberration. This problem too may be in your own eye, even if you’re wearing your glasses. If it is, all binoculars with a given size exit pupil will show the same problem. To reduce it, choose higher-power binoculars; these yield a smaller exit pupil for a given aperture. Unfortunately, your eye’s spherical aberration cannot be corrected with glasses.
Now move the star from the center of the field to the edge. It will go out of focus unless you have a perfectly flat field and freedom from various other aberrations. As a rule of thumb, no degradation should be visible until the star is at least halfway to the edge of the field.
Wingspan Optics Explorer Waterproof Monocular
The Wingspan Optics Explorer Waterproof Monocular is a very powerful monocular that is capable of giving you the wonderful opportunity of seeing objects up to 12x their original sizes in a very bright, clear and pleasant manner. In addition to offering an excellent magnification with a crystal clear field of view, this monocular is also so durable that it can be used in any environment and weather condition you can think of.
Monocular Size and Weight
In general, an 8×2or 10×2monocular is considered to be a compact/pocket monocular. It will be very portable. This type of monocular may come with a small carrying bag. The pocket monocular works as a cool gadget as it’s easy to carry around everywhere, keep in your car or in your pocket when hiking. Pocket monoculars are cheaper and can also serve as a nice gift to someone.
However, if you want to enjoy a wider, sharper and brighter image, then you should consider buying a 30mm to 42mm monocular.
Monocular vs. Spotting Scope
A monocular is designed to be very compact and portable. Larger monoculars with more power, bigger lenses and wider views are called actually known as spotting scopes. A spotting scope will be significantly bigger and heavier than a monocular. These are often used for hunting, bird watching or spotting subjects from a fixed location.
Night Vision Monoculars
If you are looking specifically for a monocular to use at night or complete darkness then you should consider a night vision monocular. These monoculars use a built-in IR illuminator to allow night vision capability. They normally have less magnification in order to provide a better image (less fuzzy). Night vision monoculars range in sizes, magnification and price.
The five best monoculars listed above are certainly worthy tools to help you with your outdoor adventures. The trick is to educate yourself about what type of monocular you really need — and then make the best buying decision.
Binoculars vs. Telescopes
Telescopes show a small area. Binoculars, with their wider field of view, let you scan the sky for targets. And binoculars give you a much better appreciation for how objects relate to one another. They give you a better chance to see patterns in the cosmos.
The Importance of Porro Prisms
Sometime around 1850, Italian optics wizard Ignazio Porro realized that a triangular glass block with a 90-degree corner would double-reflect a light path, letting an image emerge with the same left-right perspective with which it entered.
But birds and beasts and head-banging musicians will be much closer. To cope with this dual use, make sure your new binoculars can focus at relatively close range.
Look, also, for a center-focusing knob to easily jog both light paths to paint a sharp image on your retina for your brain to see.
This is a series of large aperture binoculars that are a phenomenal value for the best binoculars for astronomy. Ideal for long distance astronomical or terrestrial view. They are sleek and superb quality binoculars that rival the very best models.
They provide superb image quality with BAK-prism, fully multi-coated optics, diopter adjustment for sharp focusing, and they are super lightweight for their aperture size. With long eye relief for comfortable viewing and an excellent depth of field that provides a good overview without the need for constant refocusing.
They feature an 8x magnification and an objective lens diameter of 5mm, giving it a mm exit pupil. This optics is designed with quality elements for durability and resistance.A dimension of x x inches; weighing 2.pounds.
These days Binoculars for astronomy come in a wide range of shapes and sizes. And it takes the right information to select the best astronomy binoculars among the lot. It is easy to get your optic at a very low cost or at an enormous amount for what may appear to be, at least outwardly, comparable models. While they may have the same look, on the inside they are quite different. The cost may not necessarily determine the performance and durability. There are still a number of binoculars that are cost-effective but yet deliver the best performances.
Important Binocular Features
Anyone who spends a lot of time outdoors should invest in a good pair of binoculars; however, shopping for them can be a confusing experience to the uninformed. To understand how to buy binoculars for hunting, you need to understand the basics of how to read binocular specs.
This is the second number in a binocular specification. When you a see a binocular marked as 10×42, this simply means that the objective lens is 42mm in diameter. The objective then focuses that light into the prisms, which flip the image right side up, and into the magnifying lens near your eyes.
The larger the objective diameter is, the more light that is gathered from the field of view. So a 10×50 binocular will produce a brighter image than a 10×42.
Lens Coatings and Their Function
Lens coatings are a vital part of any pair of binoculars. They assist in the transmission of light, as well as cut down on glare, and other optical phenomena.
Coated: A single layer of anti-reflection coating, usually only on the objective and magnification lenses.
Multi-Coated: Some lens surfaces will be coated multiple times.
Fully Coated: All lens surfaces touched by the air have a coating.
Full Multi-Coated: All lens surfaces will have multiple anti-reflection coatings.
You can probably already guess that you want either fully coated or fully multi-coated lenses on your binoculars.
Collimation is just a fancy word meaning optical alignment. A well collimated binocular will have the lenses optical axis aligned together with high precision. Lenses that are out of collimation will result in poor performance and a nice headache for the hunter.
The other factor is the pivot points between the two optical tubes. These pivot points form the bridge of the binoculars, and must also be aligned precisely for your eyes to see properly and effortlessly.
As you would expect, it takes costly instruments to achieve this, meaning the higher quality binoculars will have well collimated optics, and the cheap-o pairs will seldom meet that goal.
Exit pupil is determined by the magnification and the diameter of the objective lens. Diameter of the exit pupil will give the amount of light that reaches your eye. You calculate the exit pupil by dividing the objective (second number) by the magnification (first number).
Exit pupil matters for hunters because it controls the amount of ambient light that reaches your eyes. The human iris is around 7mm in diameter, so the closer to 7mm, the closer you are to seeing the image with maximum brightness. Therefore an 8×4(exit pupil = 5.25) binocular produces a brighter image than a 10×4(exit pupil = 4.2).
For hunters, they need to think about how and where they usually hunt. If you spend most of your time in low light conditions, then you will want to purchase either 8×4or 10×50 binoculars for the best light transmission. Hunters in open spaces and daylight conditions can more easily get away with a smaller exit pupil on a 10×4because there is simply a greater amount of light available for transmission.
Twilight Factor is a subjective specification, and is somewhat useful to hunters, as it is supposed to be determined by how much you will be able to see in a dawn or dusk situation. The larger the twilight factor, the brighter that binocular is supposed to be at sunrise and sunset.
How we picked
So, what exactly makes good binoculars? Binoculars’ optics consist of three main components that affect their performance: the ocular lenses (in the eyepiece), the objective lenses (the lenses that are farthest away from your face), and the prism, which we’ll discuss further in a bit. The ocular lens is a magnifier. So when you see binoculars’ specifications, the first number signifies how much that lens enlarges what you’re looking at. In the case of all the models we tested, that number is an eight, so you’re getting an image size eight times larger than you see with the naked eye. The objective lens gathers light; its related number—in our case, 42—indicates the diameter of that lens in millimeters. The bigger the lens, the more light it can gather.
Other no-go categories that we won’t be touching anytime soon are zoom binoculars or binoculars that include a digital camera. In the former case, you’ll end up with optics so compromised (less light-gathering ability, lower clarity) that the convenience of multiple levels of magnification would be quickly negated. In the latter, the quality of the cameras found inside these neither-here-nor-there binoculars is about a thousand years behind even the most basic modern smartphone. Stay away.
Most of these binoculars now feature roof prisms, rather than old-fashioned porro prisms. Roof-prism binoculars, which you can identify easily by their “H” shape, draw light in along a straight path through the binoculars, from the objective lens to the eyepiece. Porro-prism binoculars, typically “A” shaped (see photo above), bounce the light along an angled path. Though either design can yield a great pair of binoculars, porro-prism units have, until recently, tended to be cheaper as well as heavier and less durable, though they could potentially yield a better image for less money. These days, roof-prism units are very inexpensive to manufacture, leading to the disappearance of high-end porro units except at the very lowest price points. For more on binocular design, see the Birding Binoculars Guide.
Another technology that has gotten less expensive is the ED lens (“ED” stands for “extra-low dispersion”). ED lenses generally weigh less and transmit light better than standard lenses. Though all of our tested binoculars performed well, of our four picks only the top two use ED lenses.
The last element of today’s great, affordable binoculars is optical coatings. Lens coatings perform various functions, such as improving light transmission, reducing glare, and keeping colors true. Coating quality and levels used to be a key differentiator between cheap and expensive binoculars, but these days, lens coating technology has come down in price. All of our picks use the highest level, which is full multicoating, meaning that all glass surfaces—most binoculars have between and 1such surfaces, called optical elements—are coated.
Another feature we deemed essential was proper functioning for users with glasses. Your binoculars work only when the proper distance between your eye and the binoculars’ ocular lens (the lens on the eyepiece end) is maintained. Glasses would increase that distance if you didn’t have a way to adjust the inboard or outboard position of the ocular lens. This feature is called eye relief, and the standard recommendation is that those who wear glasses need a minimum of 1mm of adjustability. Old-fashioned eye relief meant a pair of rubber cups that rolled down to bring your glasses to the proper distance; those cups are still found on some binoculars, but we don’t recommend them, because they’ll eventually stiffen or even tear. Preferable are eyepieces that twist downward into a more compact position, a feature that all of our picks have.
But even with all these improvements, binoculars will vary in important ways. A few models close focus down to feet away or even a little closer, though at least one popular model reaches no closer than 1feet away, making them a no-go for seeing butterflies and other up-close objects. The field of view (how large an area you see when you look out into the distance) is also variable and differed by more than 20 percent across models tested for this review.
How we tested
I took my initial 1models to a few of my favorite local Southern California beaches, mountains, and deserts for a couple weeks to get a feel for their handling characteristics and durability, and to get a rough feel for their images’ quality. But I couldn’t get an accurate handle on what actually looked better in such a familiar setting. My brain and its stored knowledge of overfamiliar birds take over, and binoculars are a lot harder to evaluate. That’s because with familiar objects, you know what you’re going to see even before you lift the binoculars.
The “act of seeing” is more a confirmation of a couple facts your brain stores, and identification becomes a result of quickly matching a minimum number of those facts with what your eyes tell you. Sure, mockingbirds have sharp, narrow bills, but that’s not usually what you look for in a distant mockingbird; you see a slender gray bird and confirm that it has black-and-white wings, and, hence, isn’t something else. Knowing that mockingbird is pretty much the only thing around with those features—and if nothing else jumps out—your identification of it as a mockingbird is instant. Your total time looking through the binoculars is maybe a second or two.
How much did the binoculars help? Probably not too much. That’s why to really test the quality and effectiveness of the equipment, you need to start with the unfamiliar, such as, say, a set of birds that you don’t see too often. Seeing unfamiliar birds requires the assimilation of a large number of unfamiliar marks all at once, preferably under physically demanding, or at least very different, circumstances.
With that in mind I selected my top five binoculars from the initial tests and took them along with me to unfamiliar territory in southern Mexico for advanced testing. Working in the field is the ultimate test for any pair of binoculars. The optics need to do some very heavy lifting—studying intricate patterns of white vermiculation on the upper back of a woodcreeper before the bird scoots around the trunk of a tree, for example—while my brain sorts through several near-identical species, something I don’t get to do back home.
Ultimately, I spent days birding Mexico’s Sierra de Chiapas with the Alpen Shasta Ridge, Athlon Optics Midas ED, Eagle Optics Ranger ED, Nikon Monarch 5, and Vixen Optics Foresta DCF HR, spending a full day with each model.
What makes the Athlon Optics Midas ED binoculars great? For starters, their brightness. A lot of birding and using binoculars in general involves looking out or up at something much brighter, like the sky, or darker, such as into a dense thicket. Just as your autofocus camera can’t figure out how to illuminate something against a bright (or overcast) sky, binoculars may have difficulty mustering the light needed to brighten the distant object you’re trying to identify. Also tough is the inverse of this situation, looking into dark, dense vegetation, a situation in which you need all the light-gathering ability the binoculars can give you. The Athlon Optics Midas ED performed well on both fronts. For example, several other models tested would not allow me to differentiate throat coloration of warblers in treetops early in the morning. With the Athlons, it was almost as if the glaring, whitish background of sky wasn’t there—the colors popped to life.
During testing in Southern California and/or southern Mexico, a few other models proved very good at bringing in color under harsh conditions, including the Bushnell Legend L Series, Celestron TrailSeeker, Carson 3D, and the Nikon Monarch 5 (my favorite of four Nikon models at the target price point). Neither the Nikon nor the Carson model had the wide field of view at distance the Midas ED boasted. The Nikon was 36feet at 1,000 yards versus 42feet for the Athlons, Bushnells, and Celestrons, which had the widest fields of view I tested. The Carson 3D binoculars were incredibly sharp and easily as bright as the Athlons, but felt almost as if they had tunnel vision, likely because their field of view was around 20 percent narrower than that of the Athlons. These field-of-view differences proved more noticeable when trying to differentiate spot-breasted wrens from rufous-and-white wrens as they crawled through vine tangles in southern Mexico, for example; the Nikon pair’s narrower field, which had otherwise excellent glass, seemed to require more time to find the birds than the Athlon pair did (and tellingly, by the end of the trip, I was grabbing the Athlons each morning).
One of the best features of the Athlon Optics Midas ED was the ease and precision of adjusting the focus. It smoothly and accurately adjusts across a wide range of focal depths. Some models, like the Nikon Prostaff 5, focused very quickly, but this often translated to loss of detail at distance, or basically, the smooshing together of anything more than a couple hundred feet away into one focusing position. This sounds confusing, but makes sense if you think of a focusing knob the way you might a volume control. Less rotation between silence and loudness means you can get between the extremes quickly, but you may not be able to get to precisely the level you want; on the other hand, a volume knob with too much rotation will take forever to adjust. With binoculars you want a happy medium that focuses fast but allows for granular accuracy. In other models, even within the same brand (e.g., Nikon Prostaff 7S), this focusing issue was less noticeable, and they performed well in this regard. In still others, such as the now-discontinued Opticron Explorer WA Oasis-C pair, the knob was sluggish, requiring a good crank around several times to focus on anything near or far.
Close focusing is key when trying to see detail on things like butterflies, wildflowers, and the like. Our pick gets as near as 6.5 feet, and though a few binoculars focused closer than that, several contenders didn’t get anywhere near getting near. The Nikon Prostaff 5, for example, couldn’t bring objects any closer than 1feet into focus. We liked the Prostaff as a budget pick, but we warn that they’re not for looking at butterflies or anything that requires getting ultra-close for detail.
One question you’ll likely have when buying binoculars will be about warranties, especially for brands you’ve never heard of. And the question is valid.
Binoculars get beat up and dusty, and cheap ones go out of alignment in a few weeks or with a good knock, resulting in double vision or blurry patches. For the record, I accidentally dropped the Athlon Midas ED binoculars onto a dirt road in Mexico (right onto the focus knob!), brushed them off and found they worked just fine. Nearly all companies I was able to reach offer a full, transferable, lifetime warranty of the “you can drive over it with a truck” type, but I recommend researching warranties before buying any model, because their details may change in the future.
But take some comfort in knowing that binoculars are now more rugged than ever. They’re about as waterproof as possible, meaning all of the pairs we recommend are sealed against dust and can handle immersion—though if you drop them into a lake, you’ll still need to dive because they don’t float, yet.
Flaws but not dealbreakers
The Athlons come with a set of press-in lens caps for the objective (larger) lens; most other binoculars use caps that fit over the lens. The press-ins make for a sleek look, but we found that they tended to fall out, leaving the lens unprotected. But that was the only (minor) flaw in a product that was otherwise close to perfect.
Bushnell Bear Grylls x 42mm
I’ll admit these look a little tacky with the orange accent, and the Bear Grylls logo plastered on the side. But the Bushnell Bear Grylls x 42mm Roof Prism Waterproof/Fogproof Binoculars pack a serious punch.
I can only imagine that Bear Grylls is getting a nice paycheck for the use of his name. At the same time, his stamp of approval is a big thing for any outdoors product.
You definitely don’t want glasses fogging up when you spot that trophy white tail ambling by. And much less do you want your bins to take on water when looking for waterfowl. This is where these BG’s perform well. You will have a clear image of your target at all times, and won’t have to worry about missing your shot because of fog or water.
Perfect for: Younger hunters who like survival shows on tv (and who won’t mind the bright orange colours).
These are great for their affordable price point. They are sleek and usable whether one is in active pursuit of an animal or staked out waiting for one to appear.
Usually, hunting or stalking is done during dusk or dawn because these are the times when animals are moving about. It is then important to consider these low light conditions when buying a binocular.
To ensure that you get good quality view despite the dark conditions, you need a binocular that has an objective size between 4and 50. A large objective size will allow more light to go into the binocular which, in turn, produces clearer images.
However, this is not the only thing that you should consider when looking for a binocular. You should also decide whether it will be handy to carry around especially when you are stalking a game.
With this, you may have to compromise to fit whatever you need for your binocular. Find the balance so that you will not have to sacrifice anything in the end.
Weight of the binoculars
It is also important to take into consideration that hunter has to carry a lot of other stuff and not only the binoculars on a hunting trip, so the weight of everything you carry matters.
While a weightier pair might be ideal for a sedentary activity such as stargazing, heavy ones will only weigh the user down when they have to be mobile and carry a pack.
However, Most of the best rated binoculars are designed in order to be easily carried in a pack or around the neck of the user.
Snypex Knight 8X4D-ED Binocular
Furthermore, Snypex Knight hunting binoculars are nitrogen filled to make them water and fog proof. In fact, you can submerge the binoculars in water for fifteen minutes without effect.
Fold down eyecups
The features above collaborate to give you a broad and bright view that is necessary for any hunter who would not want to miss out his target. You can use the binoculars with a tripod.
Bushnell binoculars have a lifetime manufacturer warranty that covers you against the costs of repair that are associated with manufacturing blemishes.
Magnification and Lens Diameter
Once you have decided on the hunting modality that you intend to practice, then you have to consider the magnifications and the ideal diameter for your binoculars.
However, the differences between both types of binoculars are not quite much, so any of the above-listed models will go well for any hunting mode you choose.
Most hunters always leave for hunting fields early before dawn and return late in the afternoon or even in the evening. For this reason, the ability of a hunting binocular to let sufficient light in and make images brighter and clearer is very important.
Basically, the best lenses should be as big as possible. The quality of the lens, as well as the coatings without forgetting the prisms, should also have crucial roles to play in the choice you make eventually.
Most extreme-width binoculars have an objective lens diameter of 42mm while compacts models have diameters between 22mm and 26mm. Binoculars with diameters up to 42mm are the best, but a good compromise if you want a lightweight travel bag is to go for the average binoculars having 32mm diameter lenses.
The operation of these hunting binoculars is simple and extremely user-friendly. It is 100 percent free of hazardous metals like lead and arsenic. The field of view is wide and the binoculars are ideal for spectacle wearers.
With this ideal magnification, you get 10x the image sharpness which is very good and more than satisfactory. Even at dusk when there isn’t much lighting, the binoculars are still great to use, thanks to integrated diopter correction, the lenses are able to adapt to the personal needs of different users.
Adjusting the level of zoom is very easy. This is done by simply turning the middle adjustment wheel. A clearly recognizable deterioration of the image quality occurs at great distances only from zoom level of 16x and above.
The binoculars are sturdy, shockproof and of a very high quality. Thanks to the rubberized grip coating, the Olympus DPS I fits very well in hand. Their price is relatively low which makes these binoculars even more beneficial.
The delivery package also includes a bag for storage and transport. Although this bag does not have a belt loop, it has a strap for hanging the binoculars over the shoulder or neck.
XTR technology for ultimate light transmission.
This binocular is particularly useful for anyone looking for range equipment that is reasonably priced. Features such as bullseye and brush modes are quite new and both have different applications. This is a great product when the quality/price ratio is put into consideration.
The binoculars come with many high-end features, and each of them is extremely important since these features help hunters track their targets easily. Some of the most important features are the phase correction coating on the prismatic glass, and the multi-coated optical elements.
The device comes in polycarbonate chassis and weighs only 1.lbs, which is relatively low compared to other hunting binoculars.
These binoculars have a rubber shield that protects them well against all vibrations and bumps, and impacts.
These hunting binoculars are waterproof, and the anti-fog feature of the lenses not only prevents them from fungus but also prevents fogging which is especially accelerated when binoculars are used in wet areas.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your monoculars wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of monoculars
- №1 — AUCEE 12X50 High Power Prism Monocular Telescope
- №2 — High Power Monocular Telescope
- №3 — Occer 10X42 High Power Monocular Telescope HD Dual Focus Scope